Totem Atilier, Yogyakarta
When asked about the origins of her group Totem Atilier (meaning ‘small studio of artifacts’), Marie Pang describes it as simply, “magic”.
“I was an importer in the 1990s. I imported electrical appliances from Korea, Hong Kong and Taiwan. When the (Asian Financial Crisis) hit in 99, I lost everything. Then, something like a miracle came to me. I realised I didn’t need money to produce – I could use my hands. I thought, maybe there is something more powerful than money.”
Bit by bit Bu Marie built up her skills in jewellery making. At first she was only making simple designs, but her new business received drastic improvements after a friend told her about the Australia New Zealand Association (ANZA) Bazaar in Jakarta. There, she learnt what styles and colours were in demand in the West.
“Importing appliances before made me different from other craftspeople, because I knew about suppliers, I knew about products coming into Indonesia so when I started my craft I already recognised the tastes of customers. So I was more conscious during the production process because I knew what to expect.”
In 2000, Bu Marie and her husband Pang Warman decided to move to Yogyakarta, where Pak Pang was starting a job there as a graphic designer. Upon moving into their new home in Sewan, Bantul, Bu Marie met a lot of older women who had a lot of time on their hands and found extra motivation to develop her business.
“These women used to spend all of their time gossiping,” she says. “Not only did I want to help them financially, but I wanted to change this habit. And now they don’t have time to gossip!”
Today the women work together on an open-air gazebo, often while listening to music.
“They prefer to work in the Sawah than to work inside. They bring their children who play nearby, and the women don’t have to work with me all the time, either – they can take their work home with them”.
Before they can do this, however, the ladies must prove they can maintain Bu Marie’s high standards of quality on their own.
“I have a system that I created on my own for quality. Some people have to try it in front of me, and then when they make a error I let them know. Sometimes they have to try a few times in order to get it right. And sometimes I have to ask them to do it again. I am very strict with quality control,” says Bu Marie.
Her high standards have certainly paid off, with Totem Atilier successfully having sold jewellery designed for teenagers through to mature women. She uses cotton batik, silver, glass and stones including carnelians, amethysts and agates. Bu Marie sources her materials from specialty supply stores in Yogya and Jakarta, and her wood coconut buttons and beads come from local people in Yogya. Wooden experts often submit designs for her, and she designs a piece depending on what materials she wants to use.
“I’m enjoying the design process so much,” she says.
Bu Marie first developed an interest in Fair Trade when ex-volunteer Anton Clark of Pekerti, approached her at ANZA’s bazaar and asked her to contact them to discuss a partnership. Bu Marie had already heard about the Fair Trade system, but delayed involvement with Pekerti until Pekerti’s then domestic sales coordinator, Bu Yanti, encouraged her.
Bu Marie is currently working to fulfill the product safety standards required by FT for batik, and hopes to achieve success so she can provide a greater volume of work for Totem Atilier’s crafters.
“Actually I already have a market for expats here, and a gallery, but I’m happy to do Fair Trade because I can help so many people around me. So I can help ladies to get an extra income for their family.”
Bu Marie has come a long way since 1999, when she first invested faith in her own abilities.
“It’s already been about 12 years and I Iove this job, and what I have done.”